MAIORI EGGPLANT AND CHOCOLATE
At a small village on the Amalfi coast, the eggplant finds a place of honor on every table.
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Buongiorno amici:
Discovering recipes that combine eggplant with chocolate and sugar may be a little unusual and intimidating. Of course, the idea is not so crazy if you think that botanically eggplant falls into the fruit category. But I can understand your trepidation.
Years ago, I introduced the combination on the dessert menu at one of my restaurants, and not everyone seemed particularly excited. After several trials, I won them over, and the creation remained on the sweet list for years to come. Today, the delicious concoction has a place of honor on every table and festival along the Amalfi Coast, particularly in Maiori during the Assumption feast. As a guest chef, I participated in one of the celebrations during the Ferragosto period. I can attest to producing the specialty in industrial quantities for the fair visitors.
Maiori’s origin is surrounded in legend and mystery. The locals are still debating whether the founders were the Romans, the Etrurians, or the Greeks along the Amalfi Coast. Several historians agree that the original name of the town was Regina Maior. Maiori connects with sister village Minori through a steep road named “path of the lemons.” If you are traveling there and feel adventurous, take the short journey of about one KM (one hour walking time). On both sides of the way, you will see hundreds of lemon groves, vital in making the famous limoncello liqueur. Bring bottled water, especially on a warm day. Breathtaking view of the Tyrrhenian Sea at the horizon from above, with romantic Amalfi resting below, about 4 KM away.
But what are the origins of the recipe?
These have their roots in ancient times. It seems that the Saracen settlements that invaded the south of the boot between the eighth and ninth centuries were already aware of the aubergines in a sweet version. The massive spread of the dessert is due to the work of several nuns of Santa Maria della Misericordia convent, the same nuns responsible for the invention of struffoli and roccoco’s, popular sweets of the Campania region.
The chocolate aubergines were also very popular with the tsar’s court after the niece of Nicholas II, traveling to Italy, decided to stay for some time in Campania. And while lodging at the Grand Hotel Cocumella in Sant’Agnello, the noblewoman was assisted by a local midwife.
Following the royal lineage, the Augustinian nuns brought the new mother a basket of typical products as gifts, including aubergines with chocolate. The unusual dessert welcomed genuine enthusiasm.
The nuns then donated the delicious recipe to several pastry chefs until it became part of the culinary tradition of both the Amalfi and Sorrento coasts. The second possible version affirms that a sweet eggplant and chocolate concoction was the work of resident monks from the ancient convent of Tramonti. First, the monks flavored the fried eggplant with a strong coffee liqueur. Then, it was substituted with the current chocolate-cream filling, making the recipe even more appreciated.
Let’s leave the legends on the back burner and move on with the recipe.
Below I have gathered two versions of the dessert. The first belongs to Maiori’s town, while the second (baked variant) includes other ingredients such as candied fruit and nuts. Pastry Chef Sal De Riso gets all the credit for both versions. Sal has a pastry shop in Piazza Cantilena in the pearl town of Minori. Master Patissier, since the 90s, alternates his days between developing outrageous desserts with national TV appearances. Recipient of the ambitious “Re del Panettone,” king of the Italian classic sweet bread, a national event that includes the finest pastry chefs of the peninsula.
Eggplant with chocolate recipe
After reading, you probably guessed that the “mulignana c’a ciucculata.” (eggplant and chocolate in Neapolitan) is not a savory preparation, although aubergines are often associated with savory preparations.
Ingredients
Two pounds of eggplant, long, Japanese varietal work better
One pound of dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup of Dutch cocoa powder
Eight ounces of almonds, chopped coarsely (reserve one tablespoon for garnish)
Eight ounces of amaretti cookies, crumbled (reserve one tablespoon for garnish)
Three cups of vegetable oil for frying
One cup of whole milk
Flour for dusting
Directions
Peel the eggplant, and slice them into 1/4-inch-thick. Sprinkle with coarse salt and allow the bitter water to release. Then rinse the salt from the slices and dry them with a clean kitchen towel. Dust the eggplant slices with all-purpose flour, and fry to crispiness on both sides (keep oil temperature at 300 F.) Transfer the slices to a paper towel, absorbing the oil. Allow cooling for 30 minutes.
Make the chocolate cream:
In a saucepan, combine chocolate with milk and cocoa. Stir the mixture continually with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula until well blended. It would be best if you achieved a smooth and lump-free batter. Remove saucepan from heat. Add almonds and amaretti to the chocolate cream and mix well. The cream will thicken considerably. Pour the chocolate cream into a flat tray, and dip (one at a time). Transfer the coated pieces onto a serving platter sprinkle with the reserved almonds and amaretti. Keep refrigerated for 1 hour covered with plastic film.
Baked eggplant and chocolate
The baked version does not change much from the classic recipe. The chocolate cream uses flour as a thickener, therefore thicker and more substantial in texture. The procedure resembles a lasagna. Pour chocolate cream on the bottom of a pyrex baking dish. Top with slices of fried eggplant, spread chocolate cream, and sprinkle the top with ground almonds, pine nuts, and orange candied fruit. Continue the alternating layering process until you have used up all the ingredients. Bake the dessert in a preheated oven at 300 F. for about 15 minutes. Serve hot, with cherries as garnish.
I prefer the cold version, but the baked variant can be exciting when made with many layers, turning it into a molded cake-like. I have also tasted recipes with ricotta and cinnamon in the layers, but much too dense for my taste.
Photo of Maiori via Maiori Music Festival
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